Wednesday StyleCrave: Chow Mo-wan Film Style

Wednesday, July 30, 2008 7:00AM - By GrahamCumberbatch

In your never-ending quest to dress better than everyone else, It’s good to make a habit of collecting style icons as key points of reference. When it comes to men’s style, movies are the well that never runs dry. The most influential style icons, male and female, in history can be found on-screen McQueen in Bullitt, Belmondo in Breathless, Keaton in Annie Hall–movies are to style what sports are to business analogies. In honor of the sharpest dudes ever committed to celluloid, this is the first StyleCrave installment of Film Style, featuring a fresh-to-death film characters who should definitely be in your style encyclopedia.

#1 Tony Leung as Chow Mo-wan in 2046

Widely considered the best Hong Kong actor of his generation, Tony Leung is best known by American art-house buffs and film students for his roles in the films of acclaimed Hong Kong director Wong Kar-Wai (who recently directed his first American film). Often called, “Hong Kong’s answer to Clark Gable.” Leung earned his cool in the Hong Kong action masterpieces Hard Boiled and Infernal Affairs, then became a dramatic leading man in Chungking Express and Happy Together. But, in no film is his swag more magnetic or his character more stylish than in 2005’s 2046.

Learn more about the timeless style of Hong Kong’s leading man after the break…

In Wong Kar-Wai’s 2046, the final chapter in a loosely linked trilogy that includes Days of Being Wild and In The Mood For Love, Leung revisits his role as Chow Mo-wan. Formerly a journalist, 2046 finds Chow as a sci-fi author and playboy who earns a little male-escort cash on the side. The film takes place both in 1960s Hong Kong and in the fictional future of one of Chow’s stories.

One of the true stars of this gorgeous film is the dreamily accurate vintage ’60s wardrobe–the brainchild of costume designer William Chang. The women, numerous and beautiful (played by, among others, the beautiful Ziyi Zhang and Leung’s real-life wife Carina Lau) arch and sway in sexy cocktail dresses and curvy, Chinese cheongsams. The men wear suits and cufflinks so naturally it’s as if they never take them off.

But, Leung holds the viewer’s attention no matter how many striking females he shares the screen with. His secret weapon is a serious arsenal of trimly cut, razor sharp vintage suits–always worn with a slim tie, silver tie clip and crisp white pocket square. At home, it’s thick-spun sweater vests over a loosened tie and rolled sleeves. But Leung’s Chow carries it beyond historical replication with subtlety, nonchalance, and a casual nattiness all his own. Chow’s style is classic, enduring, and indelibly masculine yet points toward a decidely Asian interpretation of American style. Below is a scenic breakdown of Chow Mo-wan’s style and a pictorial guide to owning the look.

Dressin’ Like Chow Mo-wan

The Essentials

1. The Tie…Keep the shape thin and the knot small. Solid colors with minor embellishments (peep the little diamond on the one from Ballantyne), vintage-inspired prints, and classic repp styles work well. (Metallics work well too.) Try some of these designer options or go authentic ’60s and shop vintage.

(L to R) A.P.C., $75; Barney’s, $105 Ballantyne, $90, Weber, $42

2. Tie Bar and Cufflinks…These are a must, as far as accessories go. Find a crisp white or light blue shirt with a French cuff and pair it with a thin tie bar (a.k.a. clasp or clip) and complementary pair of cufflinks. I think silver works best for this look, but you could rock gold too; just as long as the cufflinks and tie bar match.

(L to R) Vintage, $450; Craig Robinson NYC

4. The Suit…Really the only rules are: keep it slim and two-buttons, get it tailored, and make sure it’s sharkskin (an type of even-sided twill) or a high-quality wool (in black or blue). Slim suits are all the rage now , so you shouldn’t have much trouble finding one that suits you. But, overall, Chow’s look is a little more relaxed, less severely slim than the Thom Browne look. For the perfect balance, I’d look to Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren, like the two below.

5. Don’t Forget the Pocket Square… Always always always wear a pocket square. Crisp white always looks nice, but feel free to mix it up with a luxurious print. In Silk or linen.

Both Ralph Lauren, $30 to $70

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